I’m too tired to maintain any sort of narrative cohesion, so instead here are dot points of notable events from today.
1) The combination of BAD dumplings, two glasses of coconut milk, hot weather and tiredness (and altitude sickness? I got a nosebleed in the elevator) has done me no favors today.
2) I just had the best bowl of noodles ive had in ages, reminiscent of meat noodles in the deserts of xinjiang. It too 45 minutes of walking to find a place that wasn’t intimidatingly packed full of staring people- as i returned to the hotel i saw, across the road, an outdoor food court that looked just perfect.
3) The mix of minorities here in Kunming is fascinating- such a blend of southeast asian derived peoples and more tibetan people. My workmate who i’ll be working cl0osely with is a Bai minority, sweetest person ever and very smart- masters in development from guangdong uni. Reminds me of the Bai people I met in Dali in early 06, salt of the earth, so different to so many *insert diatribe here)\*.
4) House hunting is hen mafan. I looked at 5 places today- one was dirty but cheap, but unfortunately up 8 flights of stairs in an old building with no elevator and no western toilet (old bucket job). One was bloody expensive but so nice- 1600 kuai per month, plus 3000 bond and 1500 agent fee- half of my money gone straight up. But great location, fantastic furniture (massive widescreen tv), good bed, great bathroom. The last was near where i work, the cousin of a woman i work with owns it- in a gated compound, very new, but no furniture- so id have to buy a fridge and a bed and tables and everything else. bu fangbian de. So i still don’t know where i’ll be living.
5) my boss was annoyed that i went house hunting on my own. I do understand that the danwei (work unit) is a vital part of many Chinese lives, that after the family they are the most important source of help for people, but as the last post mentioned i like to do things on my own, because generally its a whole lot easier. how to make this clear to them without causing offence is tough.
6) I had my clothes washed today- all of them it’s so bloody good to have clean clothes. This morning before i had them i found a fresh pair of socks at the bottom of my suitcase, it was awesome .
7) met the other Kunming Ayads last night- good bunch. they showed me where to drink and get coffee and books and all sorts of things. I had a conversation with an ayad who is doing a phd on timber usage in southwest china, and we got talking about the relationship between health and the environment- we spoke of forced relocations in yunnan and other provinces, especially in the context of dam construction. he made the interesting point that one paralle is aboriginal australians who have moved from spiritual heartland to cities, and that the health of those who live traditional lives is far better than those who have changed. could be an interesting case study in the context of patterns in china.
it has been a truly massive period since 21 september when i flew back here. totally mad.
9) tomorrow is chinese national day. i am going to tourist places with my two dongbei workmates, who are my fave people at the college. they are the same age as me and seem so much more mature than many of the chinese i meet of the same age. People in China give dongbei ren a hard time about being gruff and tough and rude, but i love em- they’re honest and they drink and they make good friends.
10) Of all the places Ive been in China, Kunming’s levels of hellos and laowai cat calls is right up there at the top. It’s an interesting thing. Tojns of tourists pass through here, and i’d figured that the place must also have far more foreigners living here than my two previous homes, Jiaxing and Changchun. Further I would assume that the natural ethnic diversity of the place would make people immune to difference. apparently not.
Posted on September 30th, 2007 by admin
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